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JOHN BRYAN
STATE PARK

Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.

 

GETTING THERE

Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.

ROUTES

There currently is no guidebook for this area, but you can view routes on Mountain Project.

CAMPING

You can camp right at the state park, but you will want to make a reservation beforehand. The campground gets pretty crowded during the warmer months. You can find more information about the campground here.