MAD RIVER GORGE
In May 2017, the Ohio Climbers Coalition in partnership with the Access Fund and Clark County Park District, opened the Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve. There is a great history of climbing and bolting at the Mad River Gorge (previously Springfield Gorge) that spans many years before its official opening in 2017, but now that the CCPD owns the property, it is legal to climb here.
The Clark County Park District is working on expanding the park with new land purchases in the near future, and once this occurs, it will be the largest climbing area in Ohio featuring a mixture of sport, trad, and some bouldering routes.
Though a lot of work has been done to cleanup and develop proper trails at the park, there is still a lot of work to be done. The Ohio Climbers Coalition and Clark County Parks District is still closely working together to improve the area, but they are always looking for volunteers willing to help in this project.
Camping
There are currently no camping options at the Mad River Gorge, but there are some campsites in the area that are great options.
Buck Creek State Park (approximately 15 minutes away)
1976 Buck Creek Lane Springfield, Ohio 45502
Buck Creek State Park Camping Online Reservation FormJohn Bryan State Park (approximately 20 minutes away)
3790 Ohio 370 Yellow Springs, OH 45387
GUIDEBOOK & ROUTES
The Mad River Gorge climbing guidebook
is a reference to be used by climbers who are planning to climb at the Mad River Gorge and Nature Preserve near Springfield, OH. This book details the sport, traditional, and bouldering routes that are present within the designated climbing areas. Additionally, this book provides details of the hard work many volunteers committed to cleaning up the Mad River Gorge and preparing the climbing area for a sustainable future. This book was made by climbers for climber. 100% of profits from the sale of this book are donated to the Ohio Climbers Coalition (OCC) for use on MRG projects or related OCC work.
You can also view routes on Mountain Project.
A map of the area can be downloaded here.
crag steward
The OCC Crag Steward at Mad River Gorge is Steve Zuraski. Steve’s email address is steve@ohioclimberscoalition.org. Please feel free to contact Steve with any questions, comments or concerns about the area or if you would like to get involved with the Mad River Gorge Climbing Committee.
Bolting
All route development at the Mad River Gorge is completed by the MRG Climbing Committee (part of the Ohio Climbers Coalition). They are in charge of all rebolting and new route development in the area, and maintain a data base of all routes to ensure that the bolts and anchors are safe for climbers. Some of the routes at the MRG were present before the park was opened to climbers in May 2017, and the OCC/ MRG Climbing Committee are working to ensure that all of these bolts are replaced with Wavebolts with the help of a grant from the Access Fund.
If you have ideas for new routes to be bolted or questions about routes that are already present, please contact the MRG Climbing Committee at: sgcc@ohioclimberscoalition.org.
Rules and Other Helpful Information
Anchoring/ top roping from trees is PROHIBITED at the Mad River Gorge.
Stick clips are strongly suggested for all sport routes.
Practice the Leave No Trace principles and pack out all trash.
Stay on trails/ steps and avoid creating new footpaths through the natural vegetation.
Donate to support the Ohio Climbers Coalition!
*We are a charitable organization under section 501(c)(3) of the IRS code.
All donations are tax deductible, to the extent permitted by law.